Samichlaus is Coming
December 6th is Samichlaus Abend (Santa Night) and the big guy is on his way
I have been (rightfully) accused of not properly leaning into the Christmas season for a long time. I was “that guy” who spat on the idea of decorations or a tree before December. I was resistant to extra fun and events because they felt like a bit of a chore and were very commercialized. Something has flipped inside me, though, and I have been properly savoring Christmas since early November. First was the purchase of this badass “tree” that feels so “Zürich” to us.
We plan to add more figures to the individual branches over time, yet all the basics are there: cows, dogs, and Santa. How fun is that? The tree inspired me to get back in the groove and return to more of my prior routine, such as keeping this online diary of our life here. We have clearly passed the honeymoon phase of living in Switzerland, and it’s beginning to take on the tenor of ordinary life (in a great way). This is primarily the fault of the sweetie pictured below, imposing her will (and heart) on us. The writing has slowed to a stop over this time, and the “carefree retired” life that led us to Paris, Amsterdam, and the Alps has evaporated (liquid to gas, my friends) as well. In its place is a re-imagined adventure.
This city welcomes dogs at every turn. I don’t think twice about taking her on a train or public transit, and we have even brought her inside restaurants. Every pet must be officially registered with the government database, AMICUS. Zürich takes its dog licensing requirements very seriously, and I barely passed my THEORY class on dog ownership. I received a very sternly worded letter when I completed the course beyond the allowed time frame… by one week.
But this is a post about the magical celebration of Christmas here. As Thanksgiving is not celebrated here, I have let the person who wants a “Christmas Pyramid” (pictured at the top) out of his cage early! I have purchased the seasonal bread, Grittbänz, which celebrates St. Nicholas Day, December 6th.
Jo is not a fan of the bread, as it is more of a sweet dough, without any grainy goodness. I enjoyed the salty-sweet combination and the chocolate spears. The raisin eyes are a nice touch, too. The official start of the season, though, is marked by the lighting of the “Lucy Lights,” which dangle and dazzle above the Banhofstrasse, the central shopping district.
I have learned that the name is an homage to the Beatles song, “Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds.” While being there for the lighting was fun, they bring joy every night, for almost two months, adding light to significant winter darkness (note to self: do NOT comment on the weather).
I have been told endlessly about the Christmas Markets since our arrival, so you can imagine my excitement when the time actually arrived to visit one.
To my surprise, there are multiple markets distributed throughout the city. That doesn’t take into account the smaller, more personal markets, such as the one inside the cafe across the street from us.
While each market is unique in its offerings and “vibes,” they do have common qualities. Sprinkled among the stalls are “Stübli,” which is the Swiss German word for “Stube,” which means “cozy dining room.”
It’s where you sit down and drink your “Glüwein, “ a traditional alcoholic drink made from red or white wine that is heated and spiced with ingredients like cinnamon and cloves. The name translates literally to “glow wine.” You can buy Glüwein EVERYWHERE, and some stalls have popped up along the streets just selling this beverage.
My first time drinking the special liquid left me with a few impressions. First, it is more aromatic than I imagined, and an excellent method for relieving nasal congestion. It is also potent; one was all I could consume. Finally, it was a fantastic way to feel “warm” for all the reasons you might imagine. Most folks at the very crowded “Wienachtsdorf” market appeared to have one in their hands as they walked about, giving THIS vibe (please watch the linked video).
As a tangent, you might notice that the Swiss market is spelled differently from the German “Weihnachtsdorf,” another of the countless differences between Swiss German and German. I have a rudimentary understanding of German, but the thought of my navigating the Swiss variety is nonsensical. Even my German friends don’t often understand what the heck is happening with the local version.
The food options are wide-ranging, to be sure. We have eaten salmon burgers, empanadas, Greek gyros, cookies, and bratwurst. These are but a small taste of what is offered, as you can also eat churros, oysters, waffles, corn dogs, and more. YES, CORN DOGS!
One of the markets also features a “singing Christmas tree,” a platform shaped like a pyramid, decorated to resemble a holiday fir. It is pretty magical, to be honest, and quite a draw as you can see from the picture.
Apparently, “Tannebaum” means “fir trees” in German. Huh… And you never know what you might encounter walking the streets this time of the year. A few days ago, I was on my way to my German language lesson and encountered THIS!
Santa was driving a tram… with children… who were being read stories… by angels. No, seriously, how utterly fabulous is this? It is called the “Märlitram,” which translates to “fairy tram.” To spend the day with Santa and the angels - how fun! I am guessing they don’t serve Glühwein on this tram.
I could write for hours about what the Christmas season here is all about, but I will stop here. Soon, we will have all the children visiting us for Christmas week, and we will be attending a graduation in Ann Arbor even before then - busy days ahead.
I have lost the concept of time in my retirement. Indeed, I don't know what day of the week it is, and I have to refer to my calendar (or the daily crossword puzzle) to remind myself. I have also wondered how we could have been here this long: we moved here 11 months ago. Some days, I miss my children terribly, wondering why we moved. Yet on other days, I am filled with nothing but gratitude for this privilege of experiencing a different part of the world. Our lives are entirely, deliciously whole… and we look forward to what comes next. Ever forward! After all, Christmas is only three weeks away!
Thanks for this great essay! I have missed them, but I understand the effect of retirement and loss of sense of time. Minnie used to say, frequently, “Katie, I don’t know where the time goes!” Meanwhile, Sev keeps asking me, “What day IS it!?!?” Really, what difference does it make, anyway!?!?
Sorry to miss the Ann Arbor event! But I am sure you are looking forward to everyone spending quality time in Zurich AND with Hazel, a most beautiful pup! Enjoy the whole SEASON. Soon enough, you will be counting down to your return to the states.
Yes, time does pass quickly when you are over 60!